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The Inner Hebrides

Salford BSAC club trip to Mull, Coll and Tiree, August 1982

Mao Orkney
Christine

Tobermory, main town of Mull, the colourful houses are a well recognised landmark.

Mull, Coll and Tiree are 3 sister islands in the Inner Hebrides. Mull is the 2nd largest island of the Inner Hebrides with a population of just under 3000. It’s name translates as craggy and the topography is that of craggy headlands and hills, while the smaller Tiree has only about 600 inhabitants, and Coll less then 200.

Both Coll and Tiree are flat and treeless expanses much celebrated for the white beaches, sand dunes and unspoilt night skies and they lie side by side about 6 miles west of Mull. As might be expected the history of the islands is one of waves of Norsemen, Vikings and Scottish lairds. Fishing, slate and sheep farming are the major commodities. There are the obligatory whiskey distilleries for Ledaig and Tobermory whiskeys. The islands are rich in wildlife. Otters, killer whales, basking whales and porpoises may be found in the waters (just not by us sadly!) and rare birds include the white fronted sea eagle and the corncrake.

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Waiting on the mainland for our liveaboard fishing boat The Charna to pick us up

The Isles of Mull, Coll and Tiree


Our interest in this little slice of Scottish heaven lay in the abundance of wrecks off the coast of the islands. The whole Argyle coastline is littered with shipwrecks dating back to the earliest of times. The proximity to the North Channel, the main shipping artery from the North Atlantic, unpredictable tides and the prevailing South West wind have taken a terrible toll on ships through the ages, even modern vessels with their sophisticated navigation technology.

Our merry crew consisted of all the usual suspects, Alan Porter, John Hall, Dave Chapman, Colin Harthill, Roy Henderson, Paul Wainwright, Forbes Donald, Mark Taylor, Dudley and Chris


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Wrecks of Mull, Coll and Tiree
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The usual suspects settling in!
The Charna
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Captain Jim
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The Charna

We hired the 55ft trawler SS Charna and took the club inflatable to ferry divers to and from the dive sites. There were 10 of us in all and the boat had 10 single bunks around a central living and dining room. There was a curtain across each bunk for privacy. We were all so tired at the end of the day I dont think any one cared about the cacophony of snoring that split the air each night. The Charna came and collected us in the West Coast port of Oban for the journey across to Mull, Coll and Tiree. We had a young student called Elizabeth who was supposed to cook but spent the whole trip on her back with seasickness so mostly we ate Pot Noodle. The Captain, Jim, divided his time between the boat and the pub and appeared never to sleep.



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The Chef
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Off for a dive
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As we were still considered novices we often found ourselves teamed up with other more experienced divers, but sometimes we were allowed in together. The boat had an iron ladder on the side so either you climbed down the ladder in full kit to get into the inflatable alongside or you did a giant stride from the bow, a rather daunting 2m+ drop to the water. The difficulties negotiating the ladder soon made the leap of faith preferable although various loose fittings went flying and many a tank boot popped off! Close your eyes and think of England!

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Drying out the gear.
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Launching the inflatable
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Heading out to sea
The Hispania


The Hispania was a Swedish merchant vessel of 1340 tons carrying steel from Liverpool. She was wrecked in 1954. It is the most intact wreck in Scottish waters and is marked by a buoy and so easy to find. She sits upright in 30m with the deck at 15m. The rails and deck are complete with bollards. It is easy to swim along the decks and penetrate the ship into the companionways. The whole wreck is encrusted with sea life and large colourful anemones. All in all a very pretty wreck indeed

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En route to the Hispania
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The wreck covered in soft corals
The Pelican
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The Pelican

The Pelican was a 670 ton iron screw steam ship wrecked in 1895 in Tobermoray Bay after 50 years of service. At that time she was in use as a coal carrier and she sank in a storm.

She lies in 20m with the bow standing 10m up from the bottom. There is a lot of wreckage but it is sunken in silt so any sudden movements stir up the silt to zero visibility. A near disaster of losing our new lifting bag was averted when Alan found it drifting and returned it to us.

On our first dive we had a good look around, lots of sea life and urchins

On our second dive we went looking for treasure and found a load of lead piping but sawing and chiseling had the expected impact on the silt and visibility and we ended up in the dark. Still, we got it out eventually.

Ka-ching!

The Rondo
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The Sound of Mull and the lighthouse
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The Rondo is probably the most beautiful wreck we have ever dived on before or since. A 2363 ton Norwegian steamer, she was wrecked en route to Oslo in 1935. The ship ran up the rocks demolishing the light house. Strangely familiar story in shipwrecks. You would think there were no light houses left, they get knocked over so often.

It is a huge wreck lying at an angle on the sea bed in the Sound of Mull. The stern is in 55m and the bow in 6-8m so you swim down onto the wreck. She is coated in soft coral and anemones in different colours, reds orange, white. Lots of big shoals of fish and feather stars and worms out feeding.



I was Dive Marshall with Dave, and we had to watch and wait for everyone to dive and return before we went in. The surface conditions were very choppy. The current started running just before we got in and we had to pull ourselves down the line which was coated with jellyfish tentacles. We went to 30m but it became too dark and too deep and the current was pulling us off so we went up. The vis was 6-8M on average.

5 days later we dived in calmer conditions and better visibility. The enormity of the ship disappearing down into the depths, festooned with life and colour, is a sight I remember to this day


The Tapti
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Launching the inflatable
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Looking for the Tapti, Coll in the background.



The Tapti was a 6609 ton motor vessel with cargo of pig iron which ran aground in 1951.

She lies off the island of Coll, quite broken up on the bottom with lots of wreckage strewn about. Luckily she is marked. with a buoy so she was quite easy to find. There was lots of non ferrous metal but we had no lifting bag so we brought out a brass valve and flange. We were able to enter the cabins and find the toilets and we returned the next day for more brass and lead piping. I am sure there is more than 1 wreck on this site, the wreckage was so prolific, if you look at the wreck map this little corner of Coll coastline seems to have been a popular wreck site.

Harbour Dives
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Tobermory Harbour


We did 2 night dives, one in kelp beds and the other under a pier. The shallow depth gave me problems with buoyancy as I was underweighted. The bottom was literally alive with lobsters, crabs , hermit crabs and brittle stars. Dudley followed an octopus. The kelp beds were less active than the pier, probably because of all the fish entrails that get thrown in off the pier.


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Scenic Dives
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Fishing boat

We dived a few dives in Tobermory Bay. You cannot look for wrecks ALL the time ( just most of the time.) Again lots of sea life, brittle stars, squat lobsters and soft shell and spider crabs, some quite huge and decorated with weed and debris for camouflage. We saw many scallops swimming. They sit just under the sand and as you swim over them they flip up and swim by opening and closing their shells using the big adductor muscles, ( the bit you eat with garlic butter), and using jets of water to propel themselves forward. It looks like something out of an undersea Disney cartoon and you sort of expect them to burst into song! To this day I have never eaten one. It just seems wrong. Also the main fishing technique is to drag big chains behind the boat ploughing the sea bed and scaring the scallops up into nets. The damage to the seabed and marine life in general is incalculable so it's also a matter of principal. They are so defenceless.

Unfortunately this cuteness does not impact their huge culinary popularity. If you google scallops the first 20 pages are recipes!


Scallops swimming in the Sound of Mull captured by Scuba Scotland in 2015 on a Gopro Hero 10 https://youtu.be/QNmVjYI-9_Q
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Close up of a scallop. Note the rows of tiny eyes, small blue dots on the mantle.


Scallop eyes are a innovation among molluscs. Each eye has a pupil which contracts and dilates to regulate the light. Instead of a lens there is a concave parabolic mirror of guanine crystals which focus and and retro-reflect the light onto 2 retinas. These eyes cannot resolve shapes with high fidelity but they demonstrate exceptional contrast definition, and the ability to detect changing patterns of light and motion, which explains why they rise up from the sea bed as the diver swims over them.

They rely on their eyes as an 'early-warning' threat detection system, scanning around them for movement and shadows which could potentially indicate predators. Hopefully these are very slow predators who tire easily as after 4 or 5 swimming claps the scallops sink exhausted on the sand and may need to rest a few hours before they can swim again. Sitting ducks essentially.

Hiking the Hebrides


In between dives we snorkelled close to shore and followed the crabs and lobsters to their lairs. There was a lot of life in the rocky litter and clumps of kelp, shoals of fish, some quite large, and even an eel or 2. Of course fishing is the main economic activity off these islands.

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We also hit land a few times for walks along the head lands and exploring the tiny picturesque towns. Finally, after a fantastic week it was time to up anchor and head back to the mainland. We had a good haul of non ferrous and a lifetime of memories.




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Rocky coastline of Coll